Auto A/C R12 system sealant.....?

Well, the old R12 systems are getting rare and old. My system has a leak and I'm dreading having to replace parts and upgrade to the newer refrigerant.





Any how, the question is, has anyone used a sealer in their system. There's some stuff on Ebay that is suppose to work on the rubber AND metal leaks.





I'm wondering if anyone has used sealant in their AC systems (be it R12 or R134....). I'm thinking of getting some, just to see if it would work..... What's the downside of using it..... if I ever want to convert over to the newer refrigerant... I'm feeling "what do I have to loose...."








Thanks.

Auto A/C R12 system sealant.....?
Well if the leak is a minor one - in other words, it has taken YEARS for your system to finally lose all of its gas, you might want to simple top up with H12 - perfectly compatible.





H12 is basically just a mix of propane and butane - which is completely compatible with the R12 oil and will NOT give your compressor "the black death".





Now a few folks will point out that in some countries it is illegal to use H12 in a vehicvle (though fine for static A/C) because if you are involved in a collision, then falmmable gas can escape.





Time for a spot of reality.





In the event that your car collides with sufficent vigour to burst the aircon lines, then you need to worry about fifteen gallons of petrol - NOT a few ounces of propane.





I know from first hand experience, that dumping about 12 ounces of "mixed gas" for a blowtorch into the system meant a full working A/C system that carried on working until I finally sold the car on - two summers later.





Sure, you might have to be a bit creative with a way to couple the can to your A/C system (I used fittings bought off ebay and linked them to a modified £5 ($10) blowtorch coupler.





Leak stoppers often work - but in many cases the "leak" is so piddling, that it doesn't really need sorting - just recharging for the next 10 years of active service.





If you press the low pressure charge shrader valve in and it hisses - some gas left under pressure - then I would be VERY tempted to just fiull with R12 if you can find it - or H12 if you can't.





Neither option will harm your system in any way whatsoever.





Mark














** UPDATE **





I would suggest caution before just adding 134 to an R12 system, sure most of the parts ARE the same - but the problem is that R134 destroys the oil that R12 uses - this is why a complete vacuum out AND oil change is required for a conversion that will work more than a few weeks / months.





I REALLY suggest you do not just add R134 to an R12 system - at least use something like "Freeze12" which although 134 based, has other additives to slow down the degredation of the oil.





R134 gas and R12 oil usually end up in a damaged compressor and black sh1t through the lines, drye3r, evaporator etc. Basically ruins the system.





Your call, but I suggest if you can, stick to R12 if you can get it, or H12 if you cannot.
Reply:This is a short term fix (if it works). You may cause your compressor, evaporator, condensor etc to have to be replaced after using the sealer. I'd go for the conversion kit now and fix the leak, it's probably just a hose. Good luck!
Reply:Convert to the new r134, only minor changes are needed and a new compressor, and the refrigerant is $10 a bottle!
Reply:You can still find stations than can fill R12. What you need to do is replace your hoses with modern barrier hose, replace the o-rings, and partially fill. The service station will have a gas sniffer than can pinpoint a leak if there is one. Just replace the defective part, refill with R12, and you're good for five years or so.





Converting to R138 would require replacing the expansion valve and drier, installing new fill valves, and doing a complete flush. Then you would have to replace your hoses with barrier hoses, install new seals, and check for leaks. May as well just stay with R12.
Reply:The best is to fix the leak and change over to the r134. It does not cost much at all less then $20.
Reply:dude the repair industry makes the change out to be some big deal..





the 134a is safer for the enviornment, and kids cant huff it to get high.





the only thing you need to add 134 to your exsisting system is a little screw on connector for the low pressure side. most kits come with both the high and low pressure connectors, but you connect to the LOW side to fill it up. it should look something like this


http://www.republicautosupply.com/images...





a shop wont tell you to upgrade all you need is 2 50 cent connectors. they will charge you 10 bucks for them, plus 50 bucks to ''evacuate'' your system, and to add a vaccum to it. if theres still pressure in your system, all you need are the connectors


a shop will tell you that you need to have all the old r12 if theres any still in there, vaccumed out. nope. ive filled a low r12 system with 134a and it worked fine. why would you need a new compresser? why would you need any new parts? both chemicals are put under the same pressure, and brought to the same temp, and dehumidified by the drier the same. its b.s. the shops will tell you.





go to walmart and get a can of sealant, and a can of 134a. make sure the can of 134a has a guage on it, thats removable so you can use it to make sure the pressure isnt too high. they also sell the ''retrofit'' kit to be able to connect the quick connect hose to your old r12 system,








when you get home





connect the connectors to the old fill ports. they should screw right on.





turn the car on





turn the ac on full blast, maximum cold temp, and locate the LOW pressure side











use the 134a can with the pressure guage on it and hook


it onto the low side.if the pressure is good, its your compressor. if its low, or empty take disconnect it.





take the hose with the pressure guage off and use it on the can of sealant to fill the system. make sure while you fill, that you hold the can upside down. you dont have to shake it or anything, but hold it upside down.





if it takes the whole can, and isnt full yet, add the contents of the other can. it should be getting cold now. and the guage should show some kind of pressure if it was completely empty before. stop here, even if it isnt full





check it every day to see if its leaking and how fast
Reply:You are facing the inevitable conclusion.





You are going to have to spend the money anyway. Why not do it the right way and stop wasting time and money with "Mickey-Mouse" fixes?!
Reply:new stopleak products on the market now days 4 a/c LEAKS
Reply:Save yourself aVERY BIG HEADACHE ! Freon changes to a liquid when cooled and pressurized. And to a gas when it's heated. Unlike a radiator leak sealer. Whether hot or cold the coolant always stays liquid. I don't know of a sealer that can perform with freon.If you decide to have your A/C fixed, my best advice is to take it to a shop with a Good Reputation, as well as GUARANTEE.
Reply:I WOULD FIRST LIKE TO SAY DON'T USE ANY TYPE OF SEALANT IN THE A/C SYSTEM AT ALL.





IT WILL SEAL UP THE LEAKS ALONG WITH CAUSING RESTRICTIONS IN THE SYSTEM AS WELL, LIKE THE EXPANSION TUBE, EXPANSION VALVE, RECEIVER DRIER, ACCUMULATOR AND EVEN HURT THE COMPRESSOR.





ALSO IF YOU DECIDE TO LATER HAVE THE A/C SYSTEM REPAIRED OR CONVERTED YOU WILL HAVE TO HAVE THE REMAINING FREON RECLAIMED FROM YOUR SYSTEM.





IF THIS IS DONE BY A QUALIFIED A/C REPAIR SHOP AND THEY FIND OUT THAT THERE WAS SEALER IN THE SYSTEM AND IT SCREWS UP THEIR RECLAIMER AND IT MIGHT, YOU WOULD BE LABILE FOR THE REPAIRS TO THEIR MACHINE.





I HAVE BEEN IN THE AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR BUSINESS FOR OVER 35 YEARS AND SPECIALIZE IN A/C AND HEATING SO LET ME EXPLAIN A/C REPAIRS TO YOU SO THAT YOU FULLY UNDERSTAND EVERYTHING. YOU SHOULD GET SEVERAL ESTIMATES BUT REMEMBER THAT A GOOD REPAIR SHOP SHOULD CHARGE YOU FOR CHECKING YOU’RE A/C SYSTEM COMPLETE AND IN MOST CASES IF YOU GET THE REPAIRS DONE BY THAT SHOP THEY WILL CREDIT THE CHECK OUT FEES TOWARD YOUR REPAIRS.





TYPICAL JOBS OF THE CALIBER CAN RANGE FROM $750.00 TO $2000.00 DEPENDING ON THE VEHICLE YEAR, MAKE AND MODEL BUT USE YOUR COMMON SINCE AND NEVER TAKE YOUR VEHICLE TO THE DEALER BECAUSE THEY WILL IN EVERY CASE ALWAYS JUST PATCH IT AND YOU WILL BE BACK AND UPSET.





I HAVE ALSO SEEN MANY JOBS WHERE THE CUSTOMER OR SOME OTHER SHOP CONVERTED THE A/C SYSTEM TO 134A AND NOW THE CUSTOMER IS COMPLAINING THAT THE A/C IS NOT COOLING.





CONVERTING IS NOT AS SIMPLE AS EVERYONE IS TELLING YOU, YOU WILL NEED TO FIND ANY AND ALL PROBLEMS FIRST.





THE SYSTEM WILL NEED TO BE COMPLETELY FLUSHED OUT, AND MANY PEOPLE DISAGREE WITH THIS BUT IF NOT DONE RIGHT THE FIRST TIME YOU WILL CROSS CONTAMINATE THE A/C SYSTEM.





WHAT THIS MEANS THAT YOU WILL HAVE TWO DIFFERENT TYPES OF OIL AS WELL AS TWO DIFFERENT TYPES OF FREON IN THE SYSTEM.





WHEN YOU THINK THAT THE SYSTEM IS EMPTY YOU ARE INCORRECT BECAUSE THERE WILL ALWAYS BE WHAT IS CALLED TRAPPED FREON IN THE SYSTEM AND THIS IS WHY FLUSHING IS A VERY BIG PART OF CONVERTING THE A/C SYSTEM.





IF THE VEHICLE IS IN GREAT SHAPE AND YOU PLAN TO KEEP IT FOR MANY YEARS THEN ASK THE REPAIR SHOP THAT YOU PREFER NEW PARTS INSTEAD OF REBUILT PARTS IF AVAILABLE FOR THIS REPAIR.





DO NOT CUT CORNERS BY TRYING TO SAVE SOME MONEY BUYING YOUR OWN PARTS AND THE REPAIR SHOP SUPPLIES THE LABOR EVEN THOUGH THE PARTS MAY BE WARRANTED FROM YOUR SOURCE FOR WHAT IS KNOWN AS “LIFETIME” THIS MEANS NOTHING IF YOUR PART FAILS. THE REPAIR SHOP WILL NOT REDO THE COMPLETE SYSTEM FREE BECAUSE THEY DID NOT SUPPLY THE PARTS.